Making the flax/epoxy lugs was one of the most difficult parts. I tried to plan out wrapping the lugs and even practiced the wrapping pattern with some dry fabric ahead of time but it was difficult to get an even thickness in certain areas. Although the wrapping seemed pretty even while I was putting it on it would appear a bit lumpy after compression with electrical tape. I also felt pressured for time to get the flax wrapping and compression with electrical tape done the way I wanted even though the epoxy working time was about 30-40 minutes and I mixed up a separate batch for each lug. In the bottom bracket area I made things a bit more challenging by wrapping the cable tubing around that area which created concave areas that were difficult to compress with the electrical tape. I ended up going through several cycles of sanding and adding more flax and epoxy to cover the thin spots until I was happy enough with the shape and lug thickness. Another aspect which I puzzled over for a while was the sizing of the frame. I wasn’t sure if I should start with the medium or large kit and ended up getting the large kit. After cutting the tubes for the front triangle according to the original plans and holding them together with some tape I realized the reach would probably be too long. Based on comparison to my road bike I decided to shorten the front triangle by about 5cm which required recutting the top tube and down tube. I also lengthened the chain stay a little bit. As I wasn’t very confident in my modifications it made me a bit anxious to see how the bike would fit and ride in the end. Alignment and spacing of the rear triangle was one of the most difficult parts as the diameter for the chain stays is quite large and I was trying to avoid having to create cutouts for tire or crank arm clearance. It helped to create a scale drawing including the tire and crank to figure out where the chain stays should attach to the bottom bracket. Another thing that helped was to make some L-shaped pieces out of PVC pipe to check the wheel location and crank arm location while aligning the tubes in the jig. While checking the alignment I discovered that the jig holding the dropouts was not at a consistent height with the other three jigs and ended up shimming the other three jigs about 2mm higher to compensate.